The three jobs that matter most
Most of what a workshop fixes could have been prevented at home with fifteen minutes and the right bottle. If you do nothing else, do these three.
Wash the salt and dust off
We are on the coast. Salt air is corrosive, and it gets everywhere — into cables, into bearings, onto the chain. A rinse with a proper bike cleaner after a coastal ride does more for a drivetrain's life than any component upgrade.
Use a dedicated bike wash rather than household detergent. Dishwashing liquid strips grease out of the places you want it to stay in.
Keep the chain clean and lubed
A dirty chain is an abrasive paste that grinds away your cassette and chainrings. Degrease it, dry it, lube it, wipe the excess off the outside — that last step is the one everyone skips, and the excess is exactly what attracts the dust that starts the cycle again. See chain lube for the wet, dry and wax options.
Check the things that hold you on
Bolts on the stem, bars, seatpost and cleats. Tyre pressure. Brake pad wear. Two minutes before a ride. Torque matters on carbon parts, where overtightening cracks things that then fail without warning.
What to keep at home
A multi-tool covers the roadside. At home you want a floor pump with a gauge, a chain checker, a set of hex keys that actually fit, and degreaser and lube. Beyond that, the tools get job-specific fast — see tools.
Common questions
How often should it be serviced properly?
It depends entirely on how much you ride and in what. A rough rule: if the shifting has gone vague, if anything creaks, or if you cannot remember the last time — it is due. Book it through our workshop.
Can I pressure-wash my bike?
Please do not. A pressure washer drives water straight past the seals in your hubs, bottom bracket and suspension pivots, and washes the grease out. A bucket, a brush and a gentle hose is the right approach.
